Fifty INCI names that appear in the formulas in our archive. Each entry gives a plain-language role, how often the name appears in the sampled formulas, and any qualifying skin or topical study we could verify. A missing study stays labelled.
01AquaWater
Solvent and carrier
Water is the main solvent in most of the formulas in this set. It carries water-soluble ingredients and gives liquids and gels their form. The cited study measured skin mechanics after water alone, not the moisturizing performance of a finished product.
- Sampled formulas
- 130 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 48 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Plasticising effect of water and glycerin on human skin in vivo.
Journal of dermatological science · 1999 · PMID 9890375
Study: In-vivo human study (n=23), water applied to forearm skin
In a 23-person in-vivo study, water applied to forearm skin increased skin hysteresis after 12-15 minutes of hydration, while skin distensibility did not change significantly.
Boundary: The study measured skin mechanics after water application, not a finished product's moisturizing performance.
Product records (16)
02GlycerinGlycerol; glycerine
Humectant and solvent
Glycerin is a small humectant that mixes with water. It helps a formula hold water and is common in moisturizers. The cited trial used a 20% glycerin cream in people with atopic dermatitis, so it does not describe every concentration or product.
- Sampled formulas
- 114 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 40 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
A double-blind study comparing the effect of glycerin and urea on dry, eczematous skin in atopic patients.
Acta dermato-venereologica · 2002 · PMID 12013198
Study: Randomized double-blind trial (n=197) in atopic dermatitis
In a 197-patient double-blind trial, a 20% glycerin cream improved dry skin as much as a 4% urea plus 4% sodium chloride cream over 30 days; moderate or severe smarting was reported by 10% of glycerin users versus 24% of urea/sodium chloride users.
Boundary: The trial enrolled people with atopic dermatitis and used a 20% glycerin cream, so the result does not directly describe lower concentrations in other products.
Product records (13)
03Butylene Glycol1,3-Butanediol
Humectant and solvent
Butylene glycol is a water-miscible diol used as a humectant and solvent. It can also adjust texture and freeze-thaw stability. The cited study tested it together with 1,3-propanediol, so it does not isolate butylene glycol's own effect.
- Sampled formulas
- 63 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 20 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Effects of 1,3-propanediol associated, or not, with butylene glycol and/or glycerol on skin hydration and skin barrier function.
International journal of cosmetic science · 2024 · PMID 37699769
Study: In-vivo human study (n=30), forearm application
In a 30-person forearm study, 1,3-propanediol combined with 5% butylene glycol increased skin hydration and improved barrier function at 15 minutes, 2 hours and 8 hours after application.
Boundary: Butylene glycol was tested in combination with 1,3-propanediol, so the study does not isolate its own effect.
Product records (7)
04Phenoxyethanol2-Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Phenoxyethanol is an aromatic alcohol used as a preservative. It helps prevent microbial growth in leave-on and rinse-off products. Two human studies are cited: one on sensory reactions in people who reported sensitivity, and one on how much of a controlled dose is absorbed through skin.
- Sampled formulas
- 63 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 34 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (2)
Qualifying evidence (2)
Inhibition of TRPV1 prevented skin irritancy induced by phenoxyethanol. A preliminary in vitro and in vivo study.
International journal of cosmetic science · 2017 · PMID 27168163
Study: Split-face human study (243 screened; 60 responders)
In a split-face study, 1% phenoxyethanol caused burning and itching in 60 of 243 Chinese women who reported sensitivity to it, and a TRPV1 antagonist significantly reduced those sensations.
Boundary: The sensation study selected people who already reported sensitivity to phenoxyethanol, so the proportion does not describe all users.
Dermal penetration of 2-phenoxyethanol in humans: in vivo metabolism and toxicokinetics.
Archives of toxicology · 2025 · PMID 39718592
Study: Human volunteer toxicokinetics (n=5), dermal exposure
In five volunteers, a dermal dose of 2-phenoxyethanol was absorbed, extensively metabolized and rapidly excreted in urine.
Boundary: The dose was applied under non-occlusive conditions to a defined skin area; absorption from a finished product may differ.
Product records (6)
05TocopherolVitamin E (alpha-tocopherol)
Antioxidant
Tocopherol is the main form of vitamin E. In a formula it acts as an oil-soluble antioxidant. The cited study used hairless mice and a single UV dose, so it does not establish an anti-aging or sunscreen effect in people.
- Sampled formulas
- 61 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 18 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Topical application of alpha-tocopherol modulates the antioxidant network and diminishes ultraviolet-induced oxidative damage in murine skin.
The British journal of dermatology · 1998 · PMID 9602862
Study: Animal study (hairless mice), topical application before UV
In hairless mice, topical alpha-tocopherol before UV irradiation protected epidermal glutathione peroxidase and superoxide dismutase from depletion and reduced epidermal lipid hydroperoxides.
Boundary: This was an animal study with a single acute UV dose; it does not establish a sunscreen or anti-aging effect in people.
Product records (5)
06Ethylhexylglycerin2-Ethylhexylglycerin
Preservative booster and skin-conditioning agent
Ethylhexylglycerin is a branched alkyl glyceryl ether used as a preservative booster and skin-conditioning agent. The cited data come from patch testing in a selected dermatitis population, not from a general-population survey.
- Sampled formulas
- 57 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 24 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Patch Testing to Ethylhexylglycerin: The North American Contact Dermatitis Group Experience, 2013-2018.
Dermatitis : contact, atopic, occupational, drug · 2022 · PMID 34570737
Study: Retrospective patch-test analysis (n=15,560)
In North American patch-test data from 15,560 patients, 0.25% had a positive reaction to ethylhexylglycerin; 79.5% of those reactions were judged clinically relevant.
Boundary: Patch-test populations are selected for suspected dermatitis, so the 0.25% rate is not a general population prevalence.
Product records (6)
07Sodium HyaluronateHyaluronic acid sodium salt
Humectant
Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. It is water-soluble and used as a humectant. The cited cream studies included several other actives; they do not isolate sodium hyaluronate's effect.
- Sampled formulas
- 53 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 21 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (2)
Qualifying evidence (2)
Assessment of the efficacy of a new complex antisensitive skin cream.
Journal of cosmetic dermatology · 2018 · PMID 29356277
Study: Randomized split-face study (n=20) in sensitive skin
In a 20-person split-face study, a cream containing sodium hyaluronate plus portulaca extract, prinsepia oil and beta-glucan improved clinical dryness, roughness and erythema scores from baseline over 28 days, but the results were not significantly different from the control cream.
Boundary: The cream contained several actives, and the comparison with the control cream was not significant; the study does not isolate sodium hyaluronate.
Development and Evaluation of a Novel Anti-Ageing Cream Based on Hyaluronic Acid and Other Innovative Cosmetic Actives.
Polymers · 2023 · PMID 37896378
Study: 28-day cosmetic study of a multi-active anti-ageing cream
In a 28-day study of an anti-ageing cream containing sodium hyaluronate and other actives, periorbital wrinkle depth and length were significantly reduced from baseline.
Boundary: The cream contained several actives and the study did not isolate sodium hyaluronate.
Product records (8)
08Caprylyl Glycol1,2-Octanediol
Humectant and preservative booster
Caprylyl glycol is a medium-chain diol used as a humectant and preservative booster. The cited patch test found no delayed type IV hypersensitivity to a 15% equal-part mixture with 1,2-hexanediol; rare reactions are not ruled out.
- Sampled formulas
- 49 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 22 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Safety of a preservative system containing 1,2-hexanediol and caprylyl glycol.
Cutaneous and ocular toxicology · 2009 · PMID 19514921
Study: Repeat insult patch test (n=200)
In a 200-person repeat insult patch test, a 15% equal-part mixture of 1,2-hexanediol and caprylyl glycol produced no delayed type IV hypersensitivity reactions.
Boundary: The test used a 15% mixture in a carbomer gel and a cosmetic formulation; it does not rule out rare reactions.
Product records (2)
091,2-HexanediolHexane-1,2-diol
Solvent and preservative booster
1,2-Hexanediol is a diol used as a solvent and preservative booster. The cited human patch test found no delayed type IV hypersensitivity to a 15% mixture with caprylyl glycol; rare reactions are not ruled out.
- Sampled formulas
- 44 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 11 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Safety of a preservative system containing 1,2-hexanediol and caprylyl glycol.
Cutaneous and ocular toxicology · 2009 · PMID 19514921
Study: Repeat insult patch test (n=200)
In a 200-person repeat insult patch test, a 15% equal-part mixture of 1,2-hexanediol and caprylyl glycol produced no delayed type IV hypersensitivity reactions.
Boundary: The test used a 15% mixture in a carbomer gel and a cosmetic formulation; it does not rule out rare reactions.
Product records (7)
10Propanediol1,3-Propanediol
Humectant and solvent
Propanediol is a water-miscible diol made from a three-carbon chain. It is used as a humectant and solvent. The cited study measured short-term effects after a single forearm application.
- Sampled formulas
- 41 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 18 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Effects of 1,3-propanediol associated, or not, with butylene glycol and/or glycerol on skin hydration and skin barrier function.
International journal of cosmetic science · 2024 · PMID 37699769
Study: In-vivo human study (n=30), forearm application
In a 30-person study, 1,3-propanediol at 5%, 10% or 15% increased skin hydration and improved barrier function at 15 minutes, 2 hours and 8 hours; adding glycerol improved the hydration effect.
Boundary: The study measured short-term effects after a single application on the forearm.
Product records (4)
11Citric Acid2-Hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid
pH adjuster and chelating aid
Citric acid is a small organic acid used to adjust pH and bind metal ions. The cited study used a 20% lotion on sun-damaged skin, far above the small pH-adjusting amounts in most formulas.
- Sampled formulas
- 41 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 12 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Citric acid increases viable epidermal thickness and glycosaminoglycan content of sun-damaged skin.
Dermatologic surgery : official publication for American Society for Dermatologic Surgery [et al.] · 1997 · PMID 9256916
Study: Clinical biopsy study (3 months) of a 20% lotion
In a 3-month study, a 20% citric acid lotion increased viable epidermal thickness and dermal glycosaminoglycan content in sun-damaged skin compared with vehicle.
Boundary: The study used a 20% lotion, which is far above the small amounts used to adjust pH in most formulas.
Product records (1)
12Xanthan GumXanthan
Thickener and emulsion stabilizer
Xanthan gum is a high-molecular-weight polysaccharide that thickens water-based formulas and helps stabilize emulsions. The cited study measured a specific nanoemulgel in a murine dry-skin model, not xanthan gum alone.
- Sampled formulas
- 40 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 23 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Glycerol crosslinked vitamin E loaded xanthan gum and gellan gum nanoemulgels for topical management of dry skin.
International journal of biological macromolecules · 2025 · PMID 41224059
Study: Topical nanoemulgel study with a murine dry-skin model
In a topical nanoemulgel study, xanthan gum crosslinked with glycerol formed a shear-thinning gel; the nanoemulgels reduced transepidermal water loss by up to 33.3%, and the xanthan-based gel released 27.9% of vitamin E over 18 days. In a murine dry-skin model, the nanoemulgels increased skin moisture content.
Boundary: The measurements describe a specific nanoemulgel vehicle in a murine model, not xanthan gum used alone in a simple formula.
Product records (5)
13DimethiconePolydimethylsiloxane (PDMS)
Silicone emollient and film former
Dimethicone is a silicone polymer that forms a thin film. It improves slip and can reduce water loss from a formula. The cited study measured protection against a parasite, not cosmetic moisturization.
- Sampled formulas
- 40 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 23 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Dimethicone barrier cream prevents infection of human skin by schistosome cercariae: evidence from Franz cell studies.
The Journal of parasitology · 2002 · PMID 12054019
Study: Franz-cell study with human skin
In Franz-cell tests with human skin, a single application of a dimethicone-based barrier cream prevented schistosome cercariae from penetrating for at least 48 hours.
Boundary: The study measured protection against a parasite, not cosmetic moisturization or barrier repair.
Product records (3)
14CarbomerPolyacrylic acid polymer
Gelling and thickening polymer
Carbomer is a crosslinked polyacrylic acid that swells in water to form a gel. It is used to thicken and stabilize formulas. No qualifying primary skin/topical study was found for this dictionary, so this entry describes formulation role only.
- Sampled formulas
- 39 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 12 of 71
- Evidence
- No qualifying study found yet
No qualifying study found yet.
Searches found formulation and rheology papers, but no primary study that both named carbomer in the title or abstract and measured a skin/topical outcome.
Product records (2)
15PanthenolProvitamin B5
Humectant and skin-conditioning agent
Panthenol is the alcohol form of vitamin B5. It is water-soluble and used as a humectant and skin-conditioning agent. The cited studies tested a panthenol-containing emollient, so the effect is not from panthenol alone.
- Sampled formulas
- 38 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 12 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
A new topical panthenol-containing emollient: Results from two randomized controlled studies assessing its skin moisturization and barrier restoration potential, and the effect on skin microflora.
The Journal of dermatological treatment · 2017 · PMID 27425824
Study: Two randomized intra-individual studies (n=23 and n=20)
In two randomized studies, a panthenol-containing emollient reduced transepidermal water loss and improved stratum corneum hydration, without reducing bacterial viability.
Boundary: The tested emollient contained panthenol as one ingredient; the study does not isolate panthenol's contribution.
Product records (3)
16Pentylene Glycol1,2-Pentanediol
Humectant and solvent
Pentylene glycol is a water-miscible diol used as a humectant and solvent. One published case described allergic contact dermatitis to it in a cosmetic cream; a single case cannot establish how often this occurs.
- Sampled formulas
- 36 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 13 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Allergic contact dermatitis to pentylene glycol in a cosmetic cream.
Contact dermatitis · 2008 · PMID 18186759
Study: Case report
A published case report described allergic contact dermatitis to pentylene glycol in a cosmetic cream.
Boundary: A single case report cannot establish how often this reaction occurs.
No product in the archived set lists this ingredient. This is not evidence that no product contains it.
17Sodium ChlorideTable salt
Electrolyte and viscosity modifier
Sodium chloride is a simple salt used to adjust viscosity and ionic strength. The cited trial tested it in a urea/sodium chloride cream, so the result does not isolate its effect.
- Sampled formulas
- 34 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 7 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
A double-blind study comparing the effect of glycerin and urea on dry, eczematous skin in atopic patients.
Acta dermato-venereologica · 2002 · PMID 12013198
Study: Randomized double-blind trial (n=197) in atopic dermatitis
In a 197-patient trial, a 4% urea plus 4% sodium chloride cream improved dry skin as much as a 20% glycerin cream, but moderate or severe smarting was reported by 24% versus 10% of glycerin users.
Boundary: Sodium chloride was part of a urea/sodium chloride cream, so the result does not isolate its effect.
Product records (4)
18NiacinamideVitamin B3; nicotinamide
Water-soluble skin-conditioning agent
Niacinamide is the amide form of vitamin B3. It is water-soluble and used as a skin-conditioning agent. The cited trial used a 2% moisturizer for 4 weeks in a selected study population.
- Sampled formulas
- 34 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 15 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production.
Journal of cosmetic and laser therapy : official publication of the European Society for Laser Dermatology · 2006 · PMID 16766489
Study: Double-blind placebo-controlled trial (n=100)
In a double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, 2% niacinamide applied to the face for 4 weeks significantly lowered sebum excretion rate in 50 Japanese subjects.
Boundary: The result comes from a 2% moisturizer used for 4 weeks in a selected study population.
Product records (3)
19Sodium HydroxideLye; caustic soda
pH adjuster
Sodium hydroxide is a strong base used in small amounts to raise pH and neutralize acidic ingredients. No qualifying primary skin/topical study was found for this dictionary.
- Sampled formulas
- 31 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 16 of 71
- Evidence
- No qualifying study found yet
No qualifying study found yet.
The exact-name study measured product pH in hair relaxers and did not apply a product to skin or measure a skin outcome.
Product records (4)
20Cetearyl AlcoholCetostearyl alcohol
Emollient, co-emulsifier and thickener
Cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It is a fatty alcohol used as an emollient, co-emulsifier and thickener. One case report described allergic contact dermatitis from it in an ointment.
- Sampled formulas
- 31 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 13 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Allergic contact dermatitis from cetearyl alcohol in Thrombocid® ointment.
Dermatology online journal · 2016 · PMID 27617733
Study: Case report
A published case report described allergic contact dermatitis from cetearyl alcohol in a topical ointment.
Boundary: A single case report cannot establish how often this reaction occurs.
Product records (2)
21Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideMedium-chain triglycerides (MCT)
Light emollient oil
Caprylic/capric triglyceride is a mixed triglyceride of medium-chain fatty acids. It is a light emollient oil. The cited study applied a 15% emulsion for 2 hours and reported higher superficial hydration and lower TEWL, probably through occlusion.
- Sampled formulas
- 30 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 16 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Effect of an Emollient Emulsion Containing 15.0% of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride on the Urocanic Acid of the Stratum Corneum.
Life (Basel, Switzerland) · 2023 · PMID 37109405
Study: In-vivo human study, 2-hour forearm application
In a small in-vivo study, a 15% caprylic/capric triglyceride emulsion increased superficial skin hydration and reduced transepidermal water loss after 2 hours on the forearm; the authors attributed this to occlusion.
Boundary: The study used a 15% emulsion and measured a short-term effect after 2 hours.
Product records (2)
22Glyceryl StearateGlyceryl monostearate
Co-emulsifier and emollient
Glyceryl stearate is a monoester of glycerin and stearic acid. It is used as a co-emulsifier and emollient. A 2026 in-vivo sunscreen study found that a PEG-100 stearate/glyceryl stearate emulsifier combination was associated with reduced homosalate permeation into the stratum corneum.
- Sampled formulas
- 30 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 10 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Evaluating the Efficacy of Sunscreen Formulas in Reducing UV Filter Permeation Into the Stratum Corneum via In Vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy: Insights and Applications for Practical Suncare Product Design.
Photodermatology, photoimmunology & photomedicine · 2026 · PMID 42594379
Study: In-vivo human sunscreen study (confocal Raman spectroscopy)
In an in-vivo human sunscreen study using confocal Raman spectroscopy, a PEG-100 stearate/glyceryl stearate emulsifier combination was among the formulation changes associated with reduced homosalate permeation into the stratum corneum.
Boundary: The emulsifiers were tested as a combination in a UV-filter formulation; the study did not isolate glyceryl stearate or measure a skin benefit.
Product records (3)
23Disodium EDTADisodium edetate
Chelating agent
Disodium EDTA is the disodium salt of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid. It binds metal ions that can destabilize a formula. The cited study measured absorption through intact and tape-stripped human skin in a diaper-rash model.
- Sampled formulas
- 27 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 11 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Study on percutaneous penetration of representative cosmetic ingredients in a baby wipe product in an in vitro diaper rash skin model.
Toxicology in vitro : an international journal published in association with BIBRA · 2024 · PMID 39069215
Study: In-vitro human skin penetration study (diaper-rash model)
In an in-vitro diaper-rash skin model, disodium EDTA was moderately absorbed, and compromised skin increased its absorption 1.8-3.3 fold.
Boundary: The study used tape-stripped human skin and a baby-wipe formulation; it does not describe absorption from every product type.
Product records (4)
24SqualaneHydrogenated squalene
Light emollient oil
Squalane is a saturated hydrocarbon oil used as a light emollient. The cited ex-vivo study measured how squalane changed the skin penetration of other compounds, not a moisturizing effect of squalane itself.
- Sampled formulas
- 27 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 5 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Effect of squalane-based emulsion on polyphenols skin penetration: Ex vivo skin study.
Colloids and surfaces. B, Biointerfaces · 2022 · PMID 35994992
Study: Ex-vivo human skin study
In an ex-vivo skin study, adding squalane to a water-in-oil emulsion reduced the permeability coefficients of polyphenols, indicating increased retention in skin.
Boundary: The study measured the retention of other compounds from a model emulsion, not a moisturizing effect of squalane itself.
Product records (2)
25Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerPemulen-type acrylic polymer
Polymeric emulsifier and thickener
This crosslinked acrylic polymer is used as a polymeric emulsifier and thickener. A 2026 in-vivo sunscreen study found that thickeners including this polymer were associated with reduced homosalate permeation into the stratum corneum.
- Sampled formulas
- 24 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 3 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Evaluating the Efficacy of Sunscreen Formulas in Reducing UV Filter Permeation Into the Stratum Corneum via In Vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy: Insights and Applications for Practical Suncare Product Design.
Photodermatology, photoimmunology & photomedicine · 2026 · PMID 42594379
Study: In-vivo human sunscreen study (confocal Raman spectroscopy)
In an in-vivo human sunscreen study, thickeners including acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer were associated with reduced homosalate permeation into the stratum corneum.
Boundary: The thickeners were tested as part of a formulation; the study did not isolate this polymer or measure a skin benefit.
Product records (2)
26Ceramide NPCeramide 3
Skin-identical barrier lipid
Ceramide NP is a skin-identical ceramide used as a barrier lipid in moisturizers. The cited study tested a lipid mixture enriched with ceramide NP, so the result is not from ceramide NP alone.
- Sampled formulas
- 23 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 8 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
A Lipid Mixture Enriched by Ceramide NP with Fatty Acids of Diverse Chain Lengths Contributes to Restore the Skin Barrier Function Impaired by Topical Corticosteroid.
Skin pharmacology and physiology · 2022 · PMID 34348350
Study: In-vivo human study (n=27), forearm barrier disruption
In a study of twenty-seven healthy adult male volunteers, a cream with a ceramide NP lipid mixture improved barrier recovery, stratum corneum integrity and hydration after barrier disruption by topical corticosteroid.
Boundary: The cream contained a lipid mixture, so the result is not from ceramide NP alone.
Product records (1)
27Sodium BenzoateSodium salt of benzoic acid
Preservative
Sodium benzoate is the sodium salt of benzoic acid, used as a preservative. The cited study measured absorption through intact and tape-stripped human skin in a diaper-rash model.
- Sampled formulas
- 22 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 4 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Study on percutaneous penetration of representative cosmetic ingredients in a baby wipe product in an in vitro diaper rash skin model.
Toxicology in vitro : an international journal published in association with BIBRA · 2024 · PMID 39069215
Study: In-vitro human skin penetration study (diaper-rash model)
In an in-vitro diaper-rash skin model, sodium benzoate was one of the well-absorbed ingredients; compromised skin increased its absorption only 1.1-1.3 fold.
Boundary: The study used tape-stripped human skin and a baby-wipe formulation; it does not describe absorption from every product type.
Product records (1)
28Hydrogenated LecithinHydrogenated phosphatidylcholine mixture
Emulsifier and liposome-forming lipid
Hydrogenated lecithin is a mixture of hydrogenated phospholipids used as an emulsifier and to form liposomes. The cited human-skin permeation study used lecithin-based formulations to deliver niacinamide and phytosterols, not to test a skin benefit from lecithin itself.
- Sampled formulas
- 21 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 5 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
In vitro Percutaneous Absorption of Niacinamide and Phytosterols and in vivo Evaluation of their Effect on Skin Barrier Recovery.
Current drug delivery · 2016 · PMID 26201345
Study: In-vitro human skin permeation study
In an in-vitro human-skin permeation study, soy lecithin-based formulations increased percutaneous absorption of niacinamide and phytosterols.
Boundary: The study used lecithin-based formulations and measured delivery of other actives, not a skin benefit from lecithin itself.
No product in the archived set lists this ingredient. This is not evidence that no product contains it.
29Tocopheryl AcetateVitamin E acetate
Stable vitamin E ester; antioxidant
Tocopheryl acetate is an ester of vitamin E. It is more stable to oxidation than free tocopherol. The cited rat study measured how much of the acetate is converted to free vitamin E in skin.
- Sampled formulas
- 21 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 14 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Hydrolysis of RRR-alpha-tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate) in the skin and its UV protecting activity (an in vivo study with the rat).
Journal of photochemistry and photobiology. B, Biology · 1995 · PMID 7472802
Study: In-vivo rat study, five daily topical applications
In a rat study, after five daily topical applications, less than 1% of vitamin E acetate in the stratum corneum and about 5% in the viable epidermis was hydrolysed to free vitamin E.
Boundary: This was a rat study; the conversion rate in human skin may differ.
No product in the archived set lists this ingredient. This is not evidence that no product contains it.
30Titanium DioxideCI 77891
Mineral UV filter and opacifier
Titanium dioxide is a mineral oxide used as a UV filter and opacifier. The cited tape-stripping study found coated microparticles in the follicle opening but no penetration into viable skin.
- Sampled formulas
- 21 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 15 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Penetration of titanium dioxide microparticles in a sunscreen formulation into the horny layer and the follicular orifice.
Skin pharmacology and applied skin physiology · 1999 · PMID 10461093
Study: Clinical tape-stripping study
In a sunscreen tape-stripping study, coated titanium dioxide microparticles were absent from deeper stratum corneum in interfollicular areas; small amounts reached the follicular orifice, and no penetration into viable skin was detected.
Boundary: The study used coated microparticles in a specific sunscreen; other particle sizes or formulations may behave differently.
Product records (2)
31Sorbitan OlivateSorbitan olive-oil fatty-acid ester
Non-ionic emulsifier
Sorbitan olivate is an ester of sorbitan and olive-oil fatty acids used as a non-ionic emulsifier. No qualifying primary skin/topical study was found for this dictionary; the only exact-name study was a 30-day formulation stability study and was excluded.
- Sampled formulas
- 19 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 5 of 71
- Evidence
- No qualifying study found yet
No qualifying study found yet.
The only exact-name study found was a 30-day formulation stability study with no skin measurement; it did not meet the skin or topical evidence rule.
Product records (1)
32AllantoinGlyoxyldiureide
Skin-conditioning agent
Allantoin is a small nitrogen-containing compound used as a skin-conditioning agent. The cited studies describe skin deposition from liposomes and a clinical trial in radiation-induced skin reactions; neither isolates allantoin's effect.
- Sampled formulas
- 19 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 4 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (2)
Qualifying evidence (2)
Combination of argan oil and phospholipids for the development of an effective liposome-like formulation able to improve skin hydration and allantoin dermal delivery.
International journal of pharmaceutics · 2016 · PMID 27063848
Study: In-vitro skin deposition study with liposomes
In liposomal formulations, allantoin accumulated in skin, especially the dermis (about 8.7 ug/cm2), and permeated through skin (about 33 ug/cm2).
Boundary: The measurements describe delivery from liposomes, not a clinical benefit.
Natural oil-based emulsion containing allantoin versus aqueous cream for managing radiation-induced skin reactions in patients with cancer: a phase 3, double-blind, randomized, controlled trial.
International journal of radiation oncology, biology, physics · 2014 · PMID 25151541
Study: Phase 3 randomized trial (n=174)
In a 174-patient randomized trial, an allantoin-containing oil emulsion performed similarly to aqueous cream for radiation-induced skin reactions up to week 5, but was less effective from week 6 onward.
Boundary: The emulsion contained other ingredients, and the trial enrolled people receiving radiation therapy.
Product records (2)
33Trisodium Ethylenediamine DisuccinateTrisodium EDDS
Chelating agent
Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate is a chelating agent that binds metal ions. It is marketed as a biodegradable alternative to EDTA. No qualifying primary skin/topical study was found for this dictionary.
- Sampled formulas
- 19 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 3 of 71
- Evidence
- No qualifying study found yet
No qualifying study found yet.
Searches found industrial, dental and chelation-chemistry papers, but no primary study that both named this ingredient and measured a skin/topical outcome.
No product in the archived set lists this ingredient. This is not evidence that no product contains it.
34Cetearyl OlivateCetearyl olive-oil fatty-acid ester
Non-ionic emulsifier
Cetearyl olivate is an ester of cetearyl alcohol and olive-oil fatty acids used as a non-ionic emulsifier. No qualifying primary skin/topical study was found; the only exact-name study was a formulation stability study and was excluded.
- Sampled formulas
- 18 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 5 of 71
- Evidence
- No qualifying study found yet
No qualifying study found yet.
The only exact-name study found was a 30-day formulation stability study with no skin measurement; it did not meet the skin or topical evidence rule.
Product records (1)
35TromethamineTrometamol; Tris
pH adjuster and neutralizer
Tromethamine is a small amino alcohol used to adjust pH and neutralize acidic polymers. No qualifying primary skin/topical study was found; the formulation paper was excluded because it did not test skin.
- Sampled formulas
- 17 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 4 of 71
- Evidence
- No qualifying study found yet
No qualifying study found yet.
The exact-name record is a cosmetic formulation paper describing neutralization and viscosity; it reported no skin measurement.
Product records (2)
Fragrance is a mixture of odorant compounds added to give a product its scent. Its composition varies by formula. No qualifying primary study of the INCI term itself was found for this dictionary.
- Sampled formulas
- 17 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 6 of 71
- Evidence
- No qualifying study found yet
No qualifying study found yet.
The patch-test study used a standardized fragrance mix, not the generic INCI term Fragrance; the exact-ingredient rule was not met.
No product in the archived set lists this ingredient. This is not evidence that no product contains it.
37Butyrospermum Parkii(Shea)ButterShea butter
Emollient butter
Shea butter is a fat extracted from shea tree nuts used as an emollient. The cited study tested a diaper with a shea butter-based emollient, not shea butter applied as a standalone cream.
- Sampled formulas
- 17 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 7 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Clinical Evaluation of a Diaper Containing a Shea Butter-Based Emollient and Impact on Diapered Skin Erythema.
Pediatric dermatology · 2025 · PMID 40189822
Study: Randomized crossover baby study (6 weeks)
In a 6-week randomized crossover study in babies, a diaper with a shea butter-based emollient was associated with 2.6 times higher odds of being free of perianal erythema than a diaper without emollient.
Boundary: The study tested a diaper with a shea butter-based emollient, not shea butter applied as a standalone cream.
Product records (2)
38Cetyl Alcohol1-Hexadecanol
Emollient, co-emulsifier and thickener
Cetyl alcohol is a long-chain fatty alcohol used as an emollient, co-emulsifier and thickener. The cited screening study tested mixtures with paraffin wax in cetyl alcohol under occlusion.
- Sampled formulas
- 17 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 10 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Evaluating skin-protective materials against contact irritants and allergens. An in vivo screening human model.
Contact dermatitis · 1998 · PMID 9536408
Study: In-vivo screening study (n=10 per group)
In a 10-subject screening model, paraffin wax in cetyl alcohol markedly suppressed sodium lauryl sulfate irritation (p<0.001).
Boundary: The test material was a mixture with paraffin wax, and the model used an occlusive patch.
Product records (1)
39Stearic AcidOctadecanoic acid
Co-emulsifier and thickener
Stearic acid is a long-chain saturated fatty acid used as a co-emulsifier and thickener. No qualifying primary skin/topical study was found; the formulation optimization study was excluded because it did not test skin.
- Sampled formulas
- 16 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 12 of 71
- Evidence
- No qualifying study found yet
No qualifying study found yet.
The exact-name study found was an O/W emulsion optimization with rheology and stability measurements, not a skin/topical study.
Product records (1)
40SilicaSilicon dioxide
Absorbent and anti-caking agent
Silica is silicon dioxide, used as an absorbent, anti-caking agent and oil-control powder. The cited study found flower-like mesoporous silica adsorbed nearly twice as much oil as conventional mesoporous silica and reported human skin tests, but the abstract gives no effect sizes for those tests.
- Sampled formulas
- 15 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 17 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Topology-enhanced oil adsorption by flower-like mesoporous silica nanoparticles for advanced cosmetic oil control.
RSC advances · 2026 · PMID 41635760
Study: In-vitro adsorption study plus human skin tests
In a cosmetic oil-control study, flower-like mesoporous silica adsorbed nearly twice as much oil as conventional mesoporous silica, and human skin tests supported its oil-control use.
Boundary: The human skin tests are reported without effect sizes in the abstract, so the size of the cosmetic benefit is not established.
No product in the archived set lists this ingredient. This is not evidence that no product contains it.
41Palmitic AcidHexadecanoic acid
Emollient and co-emulsifier
Palmitic acid is a long-chain saturated fatty acid used as an emollient and co-emulsifier. No qualifying primary skin/topical study was found for this dictionary.
- Sampled formulas
- 15 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 4 of 71
- Evidence
- No qualifying study found yet
No qualifying study found yet.
The exact-name study used a model stratum corneum lipid mixture and X-ray diffraction, not skin application or a topical product test.
No product in the archived set lists this ingredient. This is not evidence that no product contains it.
42Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic AcidLow-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid
Humectant
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is a low-molecular-weight form of hyaluronic acid used as a humectant. No qualifying primary skin/topical study was found for this dictionary.
- Sampled formulas
- 14 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 3 of 71
- Evidence
- No qualifying study found yet
No qualifying study found yet.
Searches for the exact ingredient name returned formulation, materials and enzyme-engineering studies, not a skin study that directly supported a sentence.
Product records (3)
43CholesterolCholesterol
Barrier lipid
Cholesterol is a sterol and one of the lipid components of the stratum corneum. The cited study tested a complete lipid mixture, so the result is not from cholesterol alone.
- Sampled formulas
- 14 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 8 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Repair of acetone- and sodium lauryl sulphate-damaged human skin barrier function using topically applied emulsions containing barrier lipids.
Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology : JEADV · 2002 · PMID 12482041
Study: Human volunteer study with topically applied lipid emulsions
In a human volunteer study, an emulsion containing ceramides, phytosphingosine, cholesterol and linoleic acid accelerated barrier recovery after sodium lauryl sulfate damage compared with a ceramide-only emulsion.
Boundary: The emulsion contained a complete lipid mixture, so the result is not from cholesterol alone.
Product records (1)
44ArginineL-Arginine
pH adjuster and humectant
Arginine is a basic amino acid used as a pH adjuster and humectant. The cited open-label study used a 2.5% arginine hydrochloride ointment in people with atopic dermatitis and had no placebo group.
- Sampled formulas
- 14 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 2 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
[Topically applied arginine hydrochloride. Effect on urea content of stratum corneum and skin hydration in atopic eczema and skin aging].
Der Hautarzt; Zeitschrift fur Dermatologie, Venerologie, und verwandte Gebiete · 2004 · PMID 14749863
Study: Open-label clinical study
In an open study, a 2.5% arginine hydrochloride ointment used for 4 weeks increased urea in the stratum corneum and skin moisture in people with atopic dermatitis.
Boundary: The study was open-label and enrolled people with atopic dermatitis; it did not include a placebo group.
No product in the archived set lists this ingredient. This is not evidence that no product contains it.
45BetaineTrimethylglycine
Osmolyte and humectant
Betaine is trimethylglycine, used as an osmolyte and humectant. The cited study used organ-cultured human skin and primary keratinocytes, not a clinical trial.
- Sampled formulas
- 13 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 3 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Organic osmolytes increase expression of specific tight junction proteins in skin and alter barrier function in keratinocytes.
The British journal of dermatology · 2021 · PMID 32348549
Study: Organ-cultured human skin and keratinocyte study
In organ-cultured human skin, betaine treatment increased claudin-1, claudin-4 and occludin expression, and betaine increased tight-junction function in primary human keratinocytes.
Boundary: This was an in-vitro/organ-culture study, not a clinical trial.
Product records (2)
47Polysorbate 20Tween 20
Non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier
Polysorbate 20 is a non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier. The cited study measured contact angles on human skin and glass; contact angle describes wetting and spread, not a skin benefit.
- Sampled formulas
- 13 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 8 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Wetting and adhesion evaluation of cosmetic ingredients and products: correlation of in vitro-in vivo contact angle measurements.
International journal of cosmetic science · 2017 · PMID 28067963
Study: Contact-angle study on human skin
In a cosmetic wetting study, polysorbate 20 had a contact angle of 28.1 degrees on glass, compared with 17.1 degrees for ethylhexyl hydroxystearate; on human skin, its contact angle was near zero.
Boundary: Contact angle describes wetting and spread, not a skin benefit.
Product records (2)
48Polysorbate 60Tween 60
Non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier
Polysorbate 60 is a non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier. In an ex-vivo porcine skin study, polysorbate 60, cetyl stearyl alcohol and their mixture did not affect stratum corneum lipid structure.
- Sampled formulas
- 13 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 3 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Confocal Raman microspectroscopy as an alternative to differential scanning calorimetry to detect the impact of emulsifiers and formulations on stratum corneum lipid conformation.
European journal of pharmaceutical sciences : official journal of the European Federation for Pharmaceutical Sciences · 2018 · PMID 29775655
Study: Ex-vivo porcine skin study (Franz diffusion cells)
In an ex-vivo porcine skin study, polysorbate 60, cetyl stearyl alcohol and their mixture did not affect stratum corneum lipid structure.
Boundary: The study used excised porcine skin and a limited set of formulations; it does not describe every polysorbate 60 formula.
Product records (1)
49Coco-BetaineCoco-betaine
Amphoteric surfactant
Coco-betaine is an amphoteric surfactant derived from coconut fatty acids, used in cleansers. Two published cases described allergic contact dermatitis from coco betaine in a medicated shampoo; two cases cannot establish how often this occurs.
- Sampled formulas
- 13 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 1 of 71
- Evidence
- Qualifying study (1)
Qualifying evidence (1)
Two Cases of Allergic Contact Dermatitis Caused by Coco Betaine in Clobetasol Propionate Shampoo.
Case reports in dermatological medicine · 2026 · PMID 41488827
Study: Case series (2 cases)
Two published cases described allergic contact dermatitis from coco betaine in a clobetasol propionate shampoo; patch testing with 1% coco betaine in water was clearly positive in both cases.
Boundary: Two cases cannot establish how often this reaction occurs.
Product records (1)
50Sorbitan IsostearateSorbitan ester of isostearic acid
Non-ionic emulsifier
Sorbitan isostearate is an ester of sorbitan and isostearic acid used as a non-ionic emulsifier. No qualifying primary skin/topical study was found for this dictionary.
- Sampled formulas
- 13 of 169
- Reviewed in depth
- 6 of 71
- Evidence
- No qualifying study found yet
No qualifying study found yet.
Searches for the exact ingredient name returned no primary skin or topical study.
Product records (1)